Three flowering trees blooming at the same as the magnolias are the Serviceberry Trees (Amelanchier); Flowering Pear (Pyrus) and Flowering Cherries (Prunus).
The flowers on these trees are not individually photogenic as perhaps the magnolia or dogwood flowers, but collectively on a tree branch these trees provide a great sight site in the landscape. The flowering serviceberries and pears all have white flowers whereas the cherries can be white, red, or pink and come in a greater variety of tree forms.
This blog and the following two blogs will be devoted to these three trees.
When employed in the garden center business and while taking courses at Ohio State’s Agricultural Institute, the serviceberry tree was being promoted as an alternative to the flowering dogwood. The serviceberry tree was an almost guaranteed spring bloomer, had small leaves, leafing and generally provided a good fall color.
Serviceberry species were so named as they were one of the earliest trees / shrubs blooming in the mountains and their small white flowers could be used in funeral services when no other trees were in bloom.
Serviceberry trees could be maintained as a multi-stemmed tree or pruned to be a single trunk tree.
Because my customers wanted a guaranteed spring blooming tree, I promoted and used the tree in landscape designs. However, admittedly, I was soon to realize that not all serviceberry varieties would meet the needs equally in the home and commercial landscape and I now have some regrets on some of my recommendations.
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The variety of serviceberry tree that I would highly recommend would be the "Autumn Brilliance" Serviceberry (Amelanchier x grandiflora ‘Autumn Brilliance.’) This variety grows naturally as a multi-stemmed tree or can be easily maintained as a single stemmed tree. Autumn Brilliance has an almost guaranteed blooming period of white flowers, presents an airy silhouette in the landscape because of its small leaves, provides edible small berries for the birds, and has a reliable great orange-red-yellow fall color.
In Akron, Ohio, some of the streets have been lined with single trunk Autumn Brilliance Serviceberry trees for their very effective spring, summer, and fall coloration. Because of the tree’s small leaves and berries cleaned up by the birds or just shriveling up on the branches, the tree is not a messy tree in the home or commercial landscape.
Due to many hybrids and crossing of hybrids there are many colors of magnolias that are very different than the original Star and Saucer Magnolias previously discussed.
One problem in the northern climates with the Star and Saucer Magnolias, is often times the trees bloom early and then the flowers are frozen off with a cold snap. (As we speak, the Saucer Magnolia in my yard is about to bloom, but cold weather is headed our way, which could freeze off the flowers.) Secondly, many of the magnolia varieties have insect pests such as scale which could destroy a plant in a few seasons.
So commercial plant breeders and tree arborists have developed an extensive list of varieties, which bloom later, are more resistant to insect and physiological problems, and have different colors and shapes to the flowers than the original species.
On the internet there are many great resources to locate different hybrids of magnolia. Most garden centers and nurseries offer some of the ever-increasing number of hybrids.
To begin your search, check out some of the following:
Varieties of Saucer Magnolia (Magnolia x soulangeana)
- 'Alexandrina' 25' tulip-shaped flowers, white inside, purle-pink outside; late bloom
- 'Rustica Rubra' 25' reddish purple flowers
- 'Purpleana' 25' reddish-purple, tulip shaped; early bloomer
- 'Athene' 18'X18' 10" flowers, white at tips/rosy-purple at base
- 'Daybreak' 20' X 20' flowers are purple-pink with white interior
- 'Elizabeth' 25' X 15' yellow flowers
- 'Purple Hybrid' 10-12' very dark purple; 5" across flowers
Varieties of Star Magnolia (Magnolia stellata)
- 'King Rose' 10' X 20' Deep purple star flower, very early bloomer
- 'Royal Star' 8-10' Early white star flowers, with pink tinge
Varieties of Kosar Magnolia hybrids (Magnolia liliflora 'Nigra' x stellata 'Rosea')
or (Magnolia liliflora ‘Nigra’ x M. stellata ‘Rosea’)
William F. Kosar and Dr. Francis de Vos made these crosses at the U.S. National Arboretum in 1955 and 1956. All of the varieties were given female names and have been collectively nicknamed, "The Little Girl Magnolias". These Kosar varieties are:
- ‘Jane’ reddish purple outside flower, creamy white inside
- Susan’ long slim purple petals which appear to twist
- ‘Betty’ red to purple flowers in mid to late April
- ‘Ann’ deep purple flowers, blooms earlier than ‘Betty’
Today there are many yellow flowering magolias being offered. Two varieties are:
- Magnolia x brooklynensis 'Yellow Bird' late blooming long lasting yellow flowers
- Magnolia acuminata
x M. denudata ‘Butterflies’ canary yellow flowers
The top flowering trees sought out in Ohio garden center and nurseries are:
- Saucer and Star Magnolias
- Flowering Dogwoods
- Ornamental Flowering Cherry Trees
- Flowering Pear Trees
- Flowering Crabapples
Each of these tree varieties not only bring spring color to the garden with their flowers, but after blooming, the leaf colors and textures, shapes, and fruits of these trees provide additional color and landscape interest long after they have finished blooming.
Let us begin our discussion about the Magnolia.
There are many varieties of magnolia available to Ohio gardeners, but the two most widely available in Ohio nurseries are the Star (Magnolia stellata) and Saucer (Magnolia x soulangiana) Magnolias and their exceptional cultivars. When in bloom, these two magnolias are covered with flowers and provide quite a dramatic splash of spring color.
Other magnolias, Southern (Magnolia grandiflora) and Sweet Bay (Magnolia virginiana) have very fragrant flowers which appear after the trees have leafed out. Though scenting the air with a great fragrance, the Southern and Sweet Bay Magnolia flower displays are not as dramatic as the Star and Saucer Magnolias.
Star Magnolia is an early bloomer and is considered a small tree due to its mature height of 10-15 feet. Because of the tree's dramatic white flowers, in the landscape, the tree is used either as a multi-stemmed single specimen plant or can be used in a mass planting of more than one tree.
The Saucer Magnolia is a far larger multi-stemmed tree and can reach a height of 20-30 feet with an equally large spread. Saucer magnolia flowers appear like large tulips and have the color of a light white and pink tips.
Because the Saucer magnolia grows large, this tree is not planted close to building foundation and is more suited to be planted where the tree can grow and branch out with no restrictions.
The Southern Magnolia is not suited to being grown in northeast Ohio, but is hardy to growing zones 6, which would as the more southern states of Virginia and North Carolina. The Southern Magnolia is a large tree and can reach a height of 60-70 feet. The tree is semi-evergreen and the flowers are large white and offer an exceptional fragrance in the landscape.
The Sweet Bay Magnolia is catching on in popularity for Ohio gardeners. Like the Southern Magnolia, the flower display is not spectacular, but when in bloom the flowers provide a very noticeable perfumed fragrance to the air. The Sweet Bay Magnolia, in the northern climates, can grow 15-20 feet and is generally place in the landscape as near a patio or deck, where its fragrant flowers can be appreciated for well over a month.
Before selecting a fertilizer, soil tests are often times conducted to determine the soil’s pH (will discuss in a later blog).
As a general rule, fast release fertilizers applied to the lawn and gardens need to be applied sparingly (not too much) so as not to burn the plant’s foliage. A good rule of thumb is don’t apply fertilizers on days of extremely hot weather or periods of drought when the plants are already stressed.
That being noted, when selecting a fast release fertilizer based on specific plant types keep in mind the following basic guide for fertilizer selection.
Essentially:
- N (nitrogen) is used to help stimulate the green leafy part of a plant. Fertilizers with high percentages or ratios of N are generally provided to turf (lawn plants), non-flowering trees and leafy green plants. The most basic fast release fertilizer combination is 10-6-4. (Nitrogen is the highest percentage of the fertilizer.)
- P (phosphorous) is for the flowering and seed producing part of the plant and root system. Roses; tomatoes; annual flowers; fruit trees; potatoes are provided fertilizers with higher percentages of phosphorous so that fruit, flower, root and tuber production occurs. Too much nitrogen and you could have a leafy green rose bush with no flowers! The basic combination fertilizer for flowering and fruiting plants would be a 5-10-10 or 5-10-5 combination.
- K (potassium) is needed for the all around vigor of the plant and is generally provided in some percentage on all commercially produced fertilizers. A fast release chemical fertilizer for plants like corn, which is both a leafy plant and seed bearing, would be a 10-10-10 or 12-12-12 combination. The 10-10-10 or 12-12-12 combinations are probably the most common used in the garden.
As discussed in an earlier blog, basic fertilizers are composed of the macronutrients of (N) nitrogen, (P) phosphorous, and (K) potassium. N-P-K is the quick shorthand to describe the three major macronutrients of fertilizer.
When reading a fertilizer bag or container, the percentage composition of N-P-K is listed. Depending on the horticultural need, the type of fertilizer is selected by the N-P-K percentages.
N-P-K and trace elements are obtainable by using man-made chemical fertilizers (inorganic) or from naturally occurring (organic) fertilizers. Organic or man-made chemical fertilizers each offer specific advantages for the gardener and , the N-P-K content can be located on the outside of the packaging.
Man-made chemical made fertilizers are generally packaged as either as a granular (dry) or liquid fertilizers. And when you think you understand the difference, granular fertilizers are further categorized as being Time-Released (Slow) or Fast Release.
Following is a brief description of time release granular, fast release granular, and liquid fertilizers
Time-Release (Slow) Fertilizers
- Provide fertilization over a period of time (usually 2-6 months) after their application by slowly releasing nutrients through a permeable coating around the fertilizer granulars.
- Benefits: long-lasting effectiveness due to slow release, a decreased likelihood of burning plants, relative easy to use, fewer applications needed per year
- Tend to be more expensive, release best in warm weather, and fertilizer effects tend to be slow or delayed depending on the watering conditions.
Fast-Release Fertilizers
- Supply nutrients to plant material faster than the time-released types.
- Applied in the same manner as the slow-released, the fast-released fertilizers will tend to show their results much quicker due to immediate nitrogen availability. However, due to their relatively quick release, their effectiveness usually lasts only a few months between applications.
- Benefits are the quick release as evidenced by quick green-up of lawns or plants. However, plants can burn easier, more fertilizer applications are needed per season, and there is greater need for watering the fertilizer after application.
Liquid Fertilizers
- Attaching a hose to a small container filled with fertilizer and spraying the combination on the lawn, garden, and landscape plants is how liquid fertilizers are applied.
- When applied properly, you can reduce the risk of burning plant material with liquid fertilizer as opposed to granular fertilizers.
- Nutrients are immediately available to the roots and plant leaves therefore providing the fastest response to fertilizing.
- Liquid is can be more costly in the large landscape; however, if you have a small garden a liquid fertilizer can be cost effective. However, with a liquid fertilizer, you will need to fertilize more often due to the fertilizer’s short-term effects.
Today many people are selecting organic fertilizers versus chemical fertilizers for the gardens, landscapes, and lawns.
Organic fertilizers are those made from once-living organisms and/or their by-products. Sources of organic fertilizers are cow and chicken manure, treated human waste as in Milorganite granulars for lawns, peat moss, processed animal bone meal, peat moss, and garden mulches.
Though the N-P-K percentages are lower in organic fertilizers, people select organic fertilizers to improve the texture of the garden soil, nutrient release is slow, and organic fertilizers are considered to be the most ecological friendly to the environment.
Plant fertilizer is one of those topics that every gardener needs to review when planting a flower / vegetable garden or maintaining the lawn, trees and shrubs in the landscape.
There are many blogs and articles about the composition of fertilizers and hopefully this explanation will assist you when you are looking for products at your local nursery and garden centers.
This very basic description is applicable whether you choose to use chemicals or non-chemical soil additives to your garden or home landscape.
There are major mineral elements needed for plant growth. The top three often forgotten are carbon (C), hydrogen (H), and oxygen (O) and are absolutely necessary for any plant growth to occur. Obviously they are only obtained by air and water and cannot be packaged in a chemical fertilizer.
Besides carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen, biologists have determined that there are essentially 6 additional macronutrients: nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), potassium (K), calcium (Ca), magnesium (Mg), and sulfur (S), which are required by plants in large amounts to thrive.
The other nutrients are referred to as trace elements (micronutrients) which are essential for some plants to grow and may be not quite so essential for other plant varieties.
All these mineral elements can be obtained naturally in varying quantities, however since the earliest days when man started to cultivate plants, he has been trying to achieve optimum plant growth by adding soil additives with higher percentages of both macro and micro elements. With today’s commercial horticulture, (farms, tree nurseries, green houses, golf courses, small garden plots, houseplants etc.) soil additives in the form of fertilizers are added to achieve optimum plant growth.
The top three nutrients in fertilizers are nitrogen (N), phosphorous (P) and potassium (K) and are collectively known as N-P-K. The N-P-K composition of a bag chemical fertilizer is listed on the outside of the fertilizer bag in are listed in the exact order of N-P-K.
Briefly:
Nitrogen (N) is a major factor in stem and leaf growth. Too much nitrogen can delay a plant's flowering and fruiting. Deficiencies can reduce crop yields, or cause the yellowing of leaves and stunted plant growth.
Phosphorus (P) is essential for flower and fruit formation. Phosphorus is applied close to the plant's roots in order for the plant to utilize it.
Potassium (K) is necessary for the formation of plant sugars, starches, carbohydrates, as well as plant root and leaf growth. Potassium enhances the flavor and color on fruit and vegetable crops and is important for leafy crops.
With some fertilizers, you may find a description of the additional elements of calcium, magnesium, and sulfur which have been added.
The N-P-K combination is determined on the type of plants you wish to grow and that will be the discussion of the next blog.
One of the most graceful trees used in the landscape is the Japanese Maple (Acer palmatum). Native to Japan, the Korean peninsula, parts of China, and eastern Mongolia, this tree is one of the aristocrats in the home landscape.
Years ago, when I first worked in a garden center, the shipments of Japanese maples were delivered with their soil balls intact (balled and burlapped). As these trees came off the delivery truck, they were heeled (temporary planting) into the nursery’s most prominent bed to catch the consumers’ attentions. This delivery was so special that often times the owner would come out to personally price each tree. Later, equally as large Japanese maple trees were being grown in plastic 3-5 gallon plastic pots. Though still priced high, the prices were about one-third the price of the balled and burlapped trees.
Some varieties of Japanese maple can grow 15 to 20 feet, while other varieties grow only 3-8 feet. These variations of growing heights as well as different tree shapes and leaf colors allows the Japanese maple to be utilized in many different landscape situations.
The Japanese maple leaf has the appearance of a palm. And the many different varieties also have palm shapes with some variations. Generally, the leaves are palm shaped with 5 to 7 lobes.
The color of the different varieties range from shades of greens to variations of red. Some of the maples leaf out with a bright yellow leaf, which gradually turns green. Generally, both the red-leafed and green-leafed Japanese maples have great fall colors. Some of the green varieties produce colors, which rival the North American autumn colors of the native sugar and red maples.
Growers over the years (centuries in fact) continue to introduce a variety of different shapes of this tree into the home and garden landscapes. Though naturally a multi-stemmed tree, the tree comes in a variety of shapes as a low-weeping shape to the same low-weeping shape grafted to a straight trunk. These varied shapes and leaf colors allows the tree to be used as a specimen tree (only one tree) to be placed strategically in a landscape as a corner planting or used in the most formal of gardens as special piece of garden statuary.
Generally, the tree prefers a moist well-drained location and does well in a semi-shaded location, though many trees of the larger varieties are thriving in very open sunny areas.
